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| julie gamble | skin care faq's |
What is exfoliation?
While worldwide awareness of exfoliation
has exploded in the last decade, it’s a concept that is
thousands of years old. Even Cleopatra’s exfoliation secrets
are well documented!
Generally speaking, exfoliation refers
to any technique that removes cells from the skin surface, not
only immediately “refreshing” the skin’s appearance
but also stimulating cell renewal.
The benefits are dramatic,
and, when used with professional guidance, exfoliation can be
used to treat a wide variety of skin problems – including
acne, hyperpigmentation, premature aging and scarring to name
a few.
Of course, there is huge variety
in these techniques – scrubs, peels, masques, dermabrasion,
and lasers! Fortunately, your skin care therapist can help you
identify what will help you best achieve your goals.
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How do Hydroxy Acids work?
Unlike physical exfoliants that remove debris through gentle
abrasion, hydroxy acid-based exfoliants smooth the skin by dissolving
the intercellular “glue” that attaches the cells
to the surface. Hydroxy acids are the most common form of at-home
exfoliant because they are extremely effective and, when used
properly, very safe.
Of course, there are several different hydroxy acids. Glycolic
Acid was the first to be used in a cosmetic application, and
is still widely-used despite its high incidence of skin irritation.
Lactic and Salicylic Acids, which are as effective as Glycolic
Acid, are now the choice of leading skin care professionals
because they deliver the same level of results with considerably
less irritation.
Dermalogica from Julie Gamble Gentle Cream Exfoliant and Skin
Renewal Booster are two great at-home exfoliants that use this
combination of Lactic and Salicylic Acids.
Hydroxy acids may be combined with enzymes derived from Papaya
(Propain) and Pineapple (Bromelain) to help digest dead skin
cells, resulting in even smoother skin. The Phytic Acid in Rice
Bran, the third key ingredient in Dermalogica from Julie Gamble's Daily Microfoliant®,
also effectively dissolves dead surface cells.
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Who needs exfoliation?
Well, everyone exfoliates naturally. In fact, as you’re
reading this, thousands of tiny skin cells are falling off your
body – about a million every minute! An exfoliation regimen
simply helps your body along in the process, which becomes especially
vital as we age.
Teenagers completely regenerate their external
layer of skin, on average every 14 days. By the time you’re
40, however, that rate has increased to 30-40 days. The result
is dull, ashy or mottled-looking skin. An exfoliation regimen
can reduce the time that dulling skin cells sit at the surface
of our skin for a healthier, more vibrant complexion. Depending
on your age and skin condition, your therapist might prescribe
a combination of exfoliation therapies. Here are some examples:
- Acne-Prone Skin: A masque-style exfoliant, such as Dermalogica from Julie Gamble
Gentle Cream Exfoliant, can help the skin combat extra oiliness
and congestion without aggravating acne conditions.
- Dehydrated Skin: Depending on the sensitivity of your skin,
you might select a masque-style or scrub-style exfoliant to
help remove the dry, dead debris and reveal healthy cells.
Combining Skin Renewal Booster with your moisturizer is another
great option.
- Prematurely-Aging Skin: Prematurely aged skin is often the
result of sun exposure. Sun exposure causes a build up of
surface skin cells, which results in a dull, dehydrated appearance.
A physical exfoliant such as Skin Prep Scrub, plus professional
MultiVitamin Power Exfoliant treatments, will help slough
away dead skin cells.
- Uneven Pigmentation: Exfoliation is an important component
of every hyperpigmentation treatment because it helps remove
the pigmented surface cells. Dermalogica from Julie Gamble Daily Microfoliant®,
when used as part of the Skin Brightening System, is the most
effective choice.
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What should I expect after an exfoliation
treatment?
Depending on the strength of your treatment, your skin may
feel a little tight and sensitized for a little while when you
leave the skin care center. This is perfectly normal, and should
dissipate quickly.
The most important consideration after any form of exfoliation
is to protect your super-vulnerable skin against the sun.
An
application of UltraSensitive FaceBlock SPF25 will help protect
your skin without any chance of sensitization. You will also
want to cleanse with a super-gentle cleanser, such as UltraCalming
Cleanser, and follow with your moisturizer to prevent dehydration.
Your therapist may recommend Barrier Repair for extra protection.
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Why isn't stronger better?
Many people get a little exfoliation-crazy under the mistaken
notion that if a little is good, a lot has to be great! (Ironically,
this is why people often mistakenly opt for the more irritating
Glycolic Acid – they assume that more irritation equals
better results.) While every skin condition is different, and
reacts to exfoliation differently, you should tame down your
exfoliation regimen if your skin feels chapped, irritated or
is unusually red for a prolonged period of time. At this point,
you’re not removing dead debris – you’re scrubbing
away the protective barrier of the epidermis, which can result
in permanent sensitization, premature aging and a host of other
concerns.
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What is pigmentation?
The pigmentation of one’s skin is the result of millions
of years of evolution, which explains the wide range of skin
tones we see in everyday life. People with origins close to
the equator, where the sun is the most intense, had to develop
protection against dangerous UV rays.
The result? An increase
in the production of melanin, a natural skin and hair colorant
that absorbs UV radiation and protects the body from damage.
In fact, the epidermis of a dark-skinned person absorbs up to
25% more UV radiation than that of a light-skinned counterpart.
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How do I prevent unbalanced pigmentation?
Pigmentation disorders are caused by a myriad of factors, which
include sun damage, hormonal imbalance, and skin trauma or disease.
Of all these causes, sun damage is both the most common, and
the most easily prevented! Simply applying a sunscreen with
a minimum SPF15 every day, and avoiding peak sun times around
midday, will do a lot to prevent the sun damage that can make
your skin’s pigment act up.
Dermalogica from Julie Gamble Solar Defense
Booster SPF30 provides optimum daily sun protection.
Hormonal imbalance, a cause of pigmentation mostly affecting
women, can occur during any time that the body’s natural
hormone balance is disturbed. These triggers can include hormonal
changes, such as those that happen during the menstrual cycle,
menopause, prolonged stress, pregnancy or even when taking birth
control pills. Unlike pigmentation related to trauma or sun
damage, hormonally-induced hyperpigmentation generally disappears
when balance is restored to the body, and it can be treated
during the interim period with topical skin brighteners.
The pigmentation related to skin trauma (cuts, wounds, scrapes
and the like) is difficult to prevent in the case of accidental
damage to the skin. Picking at acne lesions is also, of course,
a big no-no, and will only exacerbate the pigmentation associated
with the wound healing.
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What are my treatment options?
When it comes to hyperpigmentation (when pigment-producing
cells are damaged and produce too much color), there are two
possible treatment approaches -- botanical and chemical. Chemical
lighteners, predominantly those containing Hydroquinone, are
the only approach officially recognized by the US Food and Drug
Administration as effective skin lighteners.
However, Hydroquinone
has been linked with many negative side effects and can cause
severe skin allergies and worsening of the pigmentation condition.
(This is why Hydroquinone is now actually banned in much of
Asia and Africa.)
Botanical skin brighteners are a much safer approach for brightening
the skin, and are as effective when used consistently in a professional
brightening regimen.
Brightening agents to look for include
Licorice, Bearberry, Rice, Kiwi and Mulberry, coupled with Lactic
Acid and Vitamin C. Your skin care therapist will be able to
prescribe the regimen best for you, but it will most likely
begin with a professional series of Skin Brightening treatments.
These highly-active treatments include a professional-only exfoliation
to smooth away the unevenly pigmented skin cells, followed by
the application of a powerful botanical serum.
Of course, your at-home regimen is also vitally important.
After cleansing in the morning, use Dermalogica from Julie Gamble Day Bright SPF15,
which contains optical illuminators, and will help protect your
skin from further sun damage while actually helping to combat
melanin production on the cellular level. At night after cleansing,
use Dermalogica from Julie Gamble Daily Microfoliant®, a Rice-based powder
that smoothes and brightens the skin. Then apply Night Bright,
which penetrates deep into the skin and delivers a potent dose
of eleven botanical brighteners to regulate melanin production.
How much you can reduce the appearance of hyperpigmentation
depends largely on what is causing the problem in the first
place, as well as how deeply into the skin the pigmentation
extends.
Generally speaking, most people see results within 8-10 weeks
of beginning a treatment program. Keep in mind, however, that
all sun exposure must be avoided during this time – even
one unprotected day in the sun can completely reverse all positive
treatment results.
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What is sensitive skin, and do I have
it?
No other skin condition is more misunderstood than sensitive
skin. In fact, almost 90% of the population report having sensitive
skin at one time or another! To understand whether you have
sensitive skin, you first have to understand what causes it.
Sensitive skin is a genetically-inherited condition that predominantly
affects very fair-skinned individuals, usually of Northern European
ancestry. Someone with truly sensitive skin is highly prone
to blushing, has a very fine complexion and may experience bad
hay fever, allergies or asthma.
What most people suffer from is in fact sensitized skin. Rather
than a result of genetics, sensitized skin is a reflection of
your environment, lifestyle and physiology. Pollution, stress,
hormonal imbalance, cosmetic allergies, alcohol, a poor diet
and over-exfoliation can all trigger the sensitized skin condition.
The good news is that sensitized skin can be treated.
The bad
news is that, left untreated, the skin’s response can
actually result in permanent cellular damage, which can lead
to premature aging. How can I avoid trigger factors?
A few lifestyle modifications can usually solve most people’s
skin sensitization. Maintaining the skin’s barrier function
is vital, so remember to always apply your Dermalogica from Julie Gamble moisturizer
after cleansing, and whenever your skin feels tight or dry.
Dermalogica from Julie Gambles Barrier Repair was developed with this specific
goal in mind. Skin Hydrating Booster is the ideal addition to
your skin care regimen to optimize the water level of your skin.
Also, always avoid over-exfoliating your skin – remember,
more exfoliation is not better! If you notice redness or tightness
that lasts more than a few hours, you should discontinue the
use of your exfoliant for a few days.
Sun protection is also critical because sensitized skin is
even more vulnerable to UV damage. Dermalogica from Julie Gamble Ultra Sensitive
FaceBlock SPF25 is a chemical-free sun shield that was developed
specifically for sensitized skin. Lastly, avoiding trigger factors
such as hot drinks, spicy foods. msg, alcohol, caffeine and
cigarettes can help your skin recover and rebuild its normal
resistance.
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What can I do for my skin when it’s
sensitized?
We all know the discomfort of an attack of sensitization –
the skin feels tight, red and swollen, and it seems like everything
you do just makes it worse! The first step is to avoid all trigger
factors. Then, you need to follow a special regimen to help
your skin recover.
Cleansing with Dermalogica from Julie Gamble UltraCalming Cleanser,
an extremely gentle gel/cream and tissue-off formula, will remove
all irritants from the skin’s surface. Follow with Soothing
Protection Spray to mist on anti-ozonate protection that’ll
help shield the skin from further assault. Barrier Repair provides
the last step, creating an invisible silicone barrier against
the outside world. Your Environmental Control regimen doesn’t
replace your existing skin care routine – think of it
as an emergency response.
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How is rosacea different from sensitized
skin?
Rosacea is a skin condition as misunderstood as sensitive skin,
and as frequently misdiagnosed. In its early stages, Rosacea
exhibits the same symptoms as skin sensitization – redness,
blushing and tightness – as well as the same trigger factors.
However, the similarity ends there.
A disorder of the facial
blood vessels, Rosacea is a progressive inflammatory disorder
that, when untreated, develops additional complications that
include burst capillaries, facial swelling and spots on the
face that look like acne breakouts, causing people to confuse
Rosacea with acne.
One in twenty people – mostly women – are affected
by this misunderstood disease. See your professional skin care
therapist and receive a FaceMapping to determine if you are
experiencing Rosacea or a sensitized skin condition.
Fortunately, Rosacea is manageable. Avoiding trigger factors
is critical, as a Rosacea attack begins the same way skin sensitization
does. For milder Rosacea, we recommend Dermalogica from Julie Gambles sensitized
skin care regimen of Environmental Control products. There are
also an increasing number of prescription medications recommended
by your dermatologist that can halt the progression of this
disorder.
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The sun and my skin ... are they really
such enemies?
It’s no exaggeration to say that the sun is potentially
your skin’s worst enemy. In fact, skin cancer, largely
caused by unprotected exposure to the sun’s damaging UV
rays, is the most prevalent form of cancer in the world, affecting
one in five people.
And it’s on the rise – recent
studies suggest that depletion of the earth’s ozone layer
makes shielding the skin more important than ever.
Not a sun bather, you say? Well, unless you only go out at
night, your skin is still bombarded on a daily basis. Driving
to work. Walking the dog. Even sitting under indoor lighting.
The bottom line – if the sun is in the sky, sun protection
should be on your skin!
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Who is at greatest risk from sun-related
skin cancers?
Unfortunately, no one is safe from sun-induced skin cancer,
but there are several factors that dramatically increase the
risk. Anyone who has been sunburned even once before the age
of 18 has a dramatically increased risk – up to 50%! Fair-skinned
individuals are the most prone to sun damage, as are people
taking medications that contraindicate sun exposure. Speak to
a dermatologist immediately if you have a skin lesion that appears
suddenly, with asymmetrical appearance, darker edges than center,
that changes color, or becomes larger than 1/4 inch (6 mm).
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What's the best preventative approach?
If you’re directly exposed to sunlight, ensuring proper
coverage is vital. Recent studies show that it’s better
to apply an SPF15 more frequently (every 30 minutes) than it
is to use a higher SPF less frequently. It’s also important
to keep in mind that a higher SPF doesn’t necessarily
mean better coverage.
You see, a product’s SPF is calculated
based on how much sunscreen it contains. An SPF15 blocks over
90% of the sun’s damaging rays. An SPF45 contains as much
as three times the number of sunscreen agents, yet only blocks
a few percent more rays.
Also, wearing a wide-brimmed hat when you anticipate long-term
exposure is a great way to prevent damage not only to the face,
but the neck and ears as well.
And we say bring those big, eighties
glasses right back into fashion – larger sunglasses shield
the delicate eye area, helping to reduce damage and slow the
formation of crow’s feet! Find a form that meets your
needs.
Not only have sunscreen formulas improved dramatically over
the past years, but there’s been an explosion in applicator
types. For daily use, why not opt for Dermalogica from Julie Gamble mix-in Solar
Defense Booster SPF30 that can customize your existing moisturizer?
Taking the kids to the beach? Dermalogica from Julie Gambles alcohol-free, Waterproof
Solar Spray SPF25 provides the longest-lasting protection. And
everyone should have a pack of Full Spectrum Wipes SPF15 in
their gym bag, glove compartment and purse – the hygienic,
sunscreen- saturated towels make full protection just a wipe
away!
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What if sunscreens sensitize my skin?
Thanks to years of research, even the most sensitized individuals
– often the ones most at risk from the sun – can
get the protection that they need. Using super-fine milled Titanium
Dioxide particles, UltraSensitive Face Block SPF25 reflects
the sun’s damaging rays without the need for chemicals.
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What if I want that golden glow?
Yes, you can have your tan and stay healthy, too! Sunless tanning
creams can help the skin achieve a natural-looking, golden glow
without dangerous sun exposure. And, if you were scared off
by the streaky, orange products of the past… well, times
have changed!
Dermalogica from Julie Gamble has pioneered a new standard of sunless
tanning with its new Protective Self Tan SPF15, with a bronzer
that gives the skin an instant glow as it develops into a long-lasting
tan. Best of all, the SPF15 protection makes it the most guilt-free
tan under the sun!
And if you do have the misfortune (or bad planning) of too
much sun and too little sunscreen, Dermalogica from Julie Gambles After Sun Repair
is a treatment balm for immediate relief
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What is acne?
Acne is a genetically-inherited disease, which is the result
of several factors occurring in the skin. Aside from excess
oil secreted by the sebaceous glands, there is a proliferation
of cells that clog the pores, trapping oil in the follicle.
Bacteria inhabit the follicle and digest the oils, generating
waste products which then cause the irritation to the skin.
Oilier skin conditions tend to experience more acne breakouts
because they provide more food for the bacteria. Teenagers’
hormonal changes increase oil production, in turn increasing
acne breakouts. A quick Face Mapping by your skin care therapist
will identify your acne-prone areas.
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What can I do at home to help my breakouts?
Excellent skin care and hygiene are vitally important to remove
the excess oils and bacteria that are associated with acne.
Dermalogica from Julie Gamble products are non-comedogenic and completely water-soluble,
making them ideal for breakout-prone skin.
Always follow a strict
regimen of thorough cleansing with anti-bac skin wash and lukewarm
(never hot) water, followed with a hydrating conditioner such
as Dermalogica from Julie Gamble Multi-Active Toner, and an oil-free moisturizer.
Exfoliate twice a week, and use Daily Microfoliant® every
day, to help the skin rid itself of congestion-causing debris.
Dermalogica from Julie Gamble Medicated Clearing Gel helps regulate sebum (oil)
production, remove follicle-clogging debris and kill acne bacteria.
For an existing breakout, Benzoyl Peroxide provides unsurpassed
clearing while a calming mask reduces irritation.
In addition, lifestyle changes can often improve your skin.
Try to reduce stress, drink plenty of water and limit your intake
of caffeine and cigarettes, which may stimulate the adrenal
glands and promote oil production.
And always remember never to pick or squeeze pimples, as you’ll
be left with an even bigger blemish and a scar to remember it
by!
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How should I change my regimen if I
am taking prescription acne medication?
If, after a month of following your recommended regimen your
complexion does not clear, it may be time to involve a dermatologist.
Depending on what you were prescribed, you’ll have to
make some adjustments to your at-home regimen, to help your
skin adjust to the new medication.
For example, you may opt
for a more gentle cleanser, such as Dermalogica from Julie Gamble Special Cleansing
Gel or The Bar. Users of Retin-A, Adapalene and Accutane should
not use any exfoliating products, or undergo waxing on the treated
areas. All users of prescription exfoliating products, as well
as of antibiotics, should avoid sun exposure as much as possible,
and apply a Dermalogica from Julie Gamble Solar Defense product with a minimum
SPF15 daily.
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Why do some people breakout in their
thirties and forties?
Stress and hormonal changes are the primary cause of the re-emergence
of acne well after puberty. Recent studies indicate that 40
to 50 percent of adults between the ages of 20 and 40 are diagnosed
with persistent, low-grade acne.
Along with several lifestyle
changes, including reducing stress and improving diet, there
are several products on the market designed to address these
problems.
Dermalogica from Julie Gamble Oil Control System is a collection of
three medicated, skin purifying formulations – a cleansing
Anti-Bac Skin Wash, Skin Purifying Wipes, and Oil Control Lotion
– all designed to control oil and prevent breakouts.
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What is the difference between acne
vulgaris and “acne” rosacea?
Acne vulgaris a more common form of acne and is caused by clogging
and inflammation of the skin's hair follicles. Rosacea, on the
other hand, is not actually a form of acne at all, even though
it looks that way in its early stages.
Rosacea is an inherited
vascular disorder in which the blood vessels of the face become
swollen after repeated exposure to certain triggers such as
extreme temperatures, alcohol, spicy food, etc. While it starts
as a simple blushing, it advances into bumps on the face that
look like an acne breakout.
Like common acne, Rosacea is treatable... but not by the same
regimen! Skin prone to Rosacea must be treated gently to avoid
triggering redness and inflammation, and may also require a
dermatologist’s prescription for special medication to
control the symptoms. (See Dermalogica from Julie Gamble’s “what is
sensitized skin” fact sheet for more information on Rosacea.
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What is premature aging and how do I
avoid it?
Far from natural! Now, we wouldn’t suggest for a minute
that there’s anything wrong with growing old gracefully.
The natural aging process is defined in our very genetics, resulting
in the complex hormonal and \physical transformations that take
place throughout life.
Premature aging refers to the unnatural
acceleration of the natural aging process, primarily due to
damage from sun exposure and an unhealthy lifestyle. While the
natural aging process cannot be slowed, most people who exhibit
signs of aging are actually suffering from premature aging.
Sound far-fetched? Consider this: not only are over 99% of wrinkles
caused by sun exposure, but premature aging can add up to twenty
years to your appearance!
Taking care of your skin early on can help your skin stay healthy
well into your golden years. It’s an investment that only
takes minutes a day!
Avoiding unprotected sun exposure is the most important measure
you can take to protect your skin. General lifestyle factors
are also important – a diet too rich in highly-processed
foods and alcohol, and lacking in fresh fruits, vegetables and
whole foods, can have a significant impact on the health of
the skin.
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How can I control premature aging?
Let’s face it – we’ve all done things in
our pasts that our skin would rather forget! And, while the
damage may be done, there are a number of ways in which you
can treat the signs of premature aging. It all starts with regular
visits to your skin care therapist, who can work out a prescriptive
regimen based on a detailed skin analysis using Face MappingSM.
More than likely, you will begin with an intensive series of
MultiVitamin Power Exfoliation treatments, a hydroxy acid and
Retinol approach that is designed to dramatically smooth away
debris and increase new cell renewal. Then, regularly-scheduled
MultiVitamin Power Treatments will keep your skin on track.
Your at-home regimen will also play a crucial role. Using vitamin-enriched
products, specifically those containing stabilized Vitamins
A, C and E, can deliver the vital nutrients that the skin needs
to help firm and improve elasticity.
Dermalogica from Julie Gamble MultiVitamin
Power Concentrate and MultiVitamin Power Firm for the eye and
lip area applied on a daily basis, along with Dermalogica from Julie Gambles MultiVitamin
Power Recovery Masque 1 to 2 times weekly, will very effectively
deliver these critical vitamins to your skin. And don’t
forget your hands, which are one of the first areas to show
signs of premature aging and sun damage – MultiVitamin
Hand and Nail Treatment was developed specifically to counter
this.
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Topical vitamins ... do they work?
As far as your body is concerned, your skin is the last in
line when it comes to getting its share of nutrients. Over time,
fewer of your ingested vitamins ever make it to the skin because
they are diverted to the internal organs, leaving the skin starved.
Applying potent vitamin complexes topically can make up for
this lack of nourishment, helping to address the signs of premature
aging on the cellular level and neutralize dangerous free radical
activity.
Technically speaking, getting those vitamins where they need
to go is a huge challenge. Extremely reactive, vitamin complexes
are generally very unstable, which means you should never use
a product that comes in a dropper bottle or jar, where it would
become contaminated after the first use.
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What vitamins are most effective?
- Vitamin A (Retinol, Retinyl Palmitate) – Essential
for normal skin development, Vitamin A regulates skin growth
and cell division. Not only does it help improve moisture
content, it actually promotes cell renewal and can help reverse
a the signs of premature aging. A powerful antioxidant, it
also scavenges free radicals.
- Vitamin C (Ascorbic Acid, Ascorbyl Palmitate) – Also
an antioxidant, Vitamin C is a key component in collagen production,
and also strengthens capillary walls, for a more firm skin
tone. It has also been shown to help regulate hyperpigmentation
and boost the skin's immune system.
- Vitamin E (Tocopherol, Tocopheryl Acetate) – Powerfully
antioxidant, Vitamin E also helps to protect the skin's moisture
barrier, smooth the skin, reduce inflammation and promote
healing.
- Pro-Vitamin B5 (Panthenol) – A powerful vitamin that
encourages cell regeneration, which stimulates the healing
process.
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